...In The Valley of the Kvetching Magnolias!

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

The Limitations of Lima and Lessons Learned

This is my last full day in Lima (I'm leaving for Santiago tomorrow night), and I'm realizing that I've come close to exhausting the tourist destinations of this city. (By the way, I went to three museums yesterday, in one binge fest by alter ego Turista Suprema). Unlike many people I've met, I have a soft spot for this foggy city. I sense that there's a vibrant cultural life underneath all the clouds and colonial decay; but as a traveler concerned with coming and going, museums and hostals, you somehow miss it.

In two lame attempts at experiencing some culture, I went to the movies on Monday and then again on Tuesday. First, I saw "Una Sombra al Frente," an actual Peruvian movie! About Peru's attempts to modernize with a new road and telegraph system at the beginning of the 20th century. It was kind of bad, a sort of movie telenovela about this one engineer's life. In a much weaker stab at culture, I went and saw "Licencia para Casarse" (aka "License to Wed" with Mandy Moore and Robin Williams). It wasn't even dubbed in Spanish. A travesty all around.

I might try a little bit harder tonight...maybe see some live music played by real Peruvians. But in the mean time, it's time for a little retrospection about what I've learned on my virgen run into the wide, wide world. For all you seasoned travelers, this will be old news. For me, it's been priceless learning these things through countless blunders and conversations with other travelers, or mere speculation. So here's my two centimos:
-In Latin America, spend less time in capital cities. They are bastions of old world decadence and Spanish archictecture...However, don't completely cast them aside, because tourists seem to do that too often, missing opportunities to go beyond the postcard imagery of exotic landscapes and "traditional" handicrafts. I think too often we forget places have a contemporary culture, rich with complexity and intrigue.
- Don't trust the travel books, especially Fodor's (Unless of course, you're a rich, crusty oil magnate from Texas). Talk to people, they know better.
- Travel by public bus whenever you can.
- Three weeks is never enough.
- Buy local newspapers, read theater and music reviews.
- Don't ever get into a car with a stranger in an unmarked car!
-However, it's okay to let your guard down. Not everyone you meet is out to steal your camera. (Some time, I'll tell you about my friend Carlos who I met yesterday. All he wanted was some one who he could practice speaking English with).
- If you have a choice of a week in Bolivia or a week in Costa Rica, take Bolivia. (I of course, haven't been to Bolivia, but I just know).
-Try to speak Spanish, even if it makes you sound dumb. On goods days, they might think you're from Argentina... America music is always a good subject to break the ice.
-Watch what you drink at high altitudes. Avoid drinks with fun sounding names like Machu Picchu.
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Don't schedule you're life away. Make sure there's enough space between plane flights for a little adventure and unknown.
-Most importantly, this is something I really love. I'm far from done with traveling the world, or for that matter Latin America. Literally: I have three months in Chile with room for visits to Argentina and Bolivia. But more generally, I'm going to make space in my life for more globe/South Ameria trotting. These past three weeks, and these coming three months are merely a small sampling ....Ahhhhh, to be twenty and naive and without a job. Hell, I can always go teach English somewhere.

As always, all the best, hope you all are well,
Turista Suprema

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Hey Danny,
I just caught up on your blogging (you keep your blog well-updated!), and it sounds like you've had an incredible 3 weeks. From my limited traveling experience the lessons you've learned seem pretty spot-on...and I definitely agree that public transit is the way to go! And yeah, I love traveling too...it's great to explore a familiar yet alien world and forget the world you're coming from for a little while. Too bad that it drains the cash away so quickly though. Hope I get to do it again soon (I'm really jealous of you)!