...In The Valley of the Kvetching Magnolias!

Friday, September 21, 2007

Two Virgins on a Hill; My first day in Santiago

Standing next to a 50 ft tall, white statue of the Virgen Mary, listening to the sounds of Spanish choir music playing softly through the speakers of La Carumbe Sanctuary at the top of a huge hill in Parque Metropolitano, overlooking all of Santiago de Chile and the white capped cordilleras poking out behind the clouds, I had the distinct feeling that this was the start of a beautiful friendship.

No, I didn't find Jesus. (Happy day of atonement, by the way....ug, I'm such a bad Jew). I did however, find Santiago de Chile chock full of potential and good feelings thus far. I'm excited to get to know the city better and feel some sense of belonging here, of being more than just a tourist. I think it's a distinct possibility.

I'm staying in this sweet neighborhood called Bellavista, and an equally sweet hostel of the same name. Bellavista is the more bohemian part of town with lots of funky bars and art galleries, and gay comedy theaters, and over priced restaurants. Bellavista Hostal is equally funky with brightly colored walls and all sorts of paintings and pop memorabilia on the walls. It warmed my heart to see a poster for Amoeba Music on Haight Street prominently displayed above the front desk. I even ran into Binkie and Jo from my Machu Picchu trek, the young person/traveler community is surprisingly small.

After getting into Santiago in the middle of the night, stumbling into Bellavista, being slightly dismayed that they lost my reservation, I got a few hours of sleep atop a comically high bunk bed. But lack of sleep is no match for Turista Suprema!

This morning, I went to La Cascona, one of Pablo Neruda's three homes in Chile. It was soooo cool. Rachel Jenkins, you would have crapped your pants it was so great. Neruda designed the house for his secret mistress (and eventually, third wife) Matilde Rosario. Being obsessed with the ocean and sailing ships, ne designed the house using a ship motif. It had low ceilings and tilted floors to replicate the feeling of being inside a hull, and balconies overlooking Santiago like decks overlooking the sea, plus it once had a canal running along the outside. But the best part was all the kooky decor on the inside. Neruda was an avid collector of art and junk, so the house is jammed packed with bizarre knick knacks (my favorite being a pair of over sized shoes, and old television functioning as an utensil cabinet) and ethic art, plus paintings by some really famous Latin American artist that were friends with Neruda (one being Diego Rivera). While you're there you can really feel the vibrancy and creativity of Chile's great poet. It's pretty amazing.

Alright, people are waiting to use the computers. Tomorrow, I meet with my host family (I hope, I haven't spoken to them yet). I hope you all are well.

Santiago, woot.
Danny

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